After several tests that are more than one thing certain: the shield is necessary.
In these days of absence have gone far ahead with the project, in the absence of stripboard I opted for a breadboard experimental (the strips are unavailable in Turin), which saves me one thousand solders, pending a final version on Unsped's shield.
Desciverò following steps, problems and their I have adopted to get solutions to attack the PC and see the arduino startup sequence of arduinome
- Welding
As shown in the photo I soldered LEDs, diodes and wires according to the official guide on flipmu . To fix the pieces before welding, there are several options: extend the legs of the component once inserted (the fastest), secure fit with plasticine (more accurate but very slow). For this step you must be very careful because if an error occurs, remove a component is quite difficult.
As for the wires to merge the four cards, he uses the ribbon I have from 16 to get a result as clean as possible. How should the guide is convenient to combine the pcb with glue, I do not know which one to use, I used not to damage the tape. It is not strictly necessary to join the pcb, dalgli patterns of the enclosures, we note that the weight of the pressure of the keys is supported by the faceplate, which is firmly screwed to the PCB via the buttons.
- Part logic
For this step, as they have in store for the Stripboard Torino, I used a breadbord copying the shield of Unsped in every detail. Council to all those who had not said the shield, only to take inspiration from that, which is definitely working. I work for your convenience I have 3 different look, at the risk of insanity due to differences between the various projects. on this blog there are some good detailed photos of the two sides of the shield.
For your convenience should you wish to test the circuit on breadbord, I recommend the use of cables 20 with only a core wire (twisted pair).
I will not explain in detail how to make the circuit, well enough to observe the shield for the resistance 100Kohm ten pin is necessary to cut the last being careful not to cut the first (the one with the dot is the number 1).
IMPORTANT!
A big and insurmountable problem (for now ...) is the version of the Arduino: One. Next to two thousand, the one has some different characteristics from the previous year, between which there is also a lack of FTDI chip, replaced by more advanced ATmega8U2. To allow programs to interface with monome and arduinome our construction, we must flash the FTDI chip as it says here to bottom. Arduino A failing this chip can not be flashed in that way and therefore will never be recognized by ArduinomeSerial and monomeSerial. Therefore not recommend the purchase of this version for the time being, I will take the old one on a site (or here here) that still has some in stock at reduced price. I repeat "for the moment" because this new version of arduino has a new chip serial / usb that would provide a performance increase Arduinome, with lower latency and maybe even a MIDI interface
I saw that someone is able to interface with Linux, an arduino to Serial-pyIO, I contacted him for more clarification and will post when I know something more updates.
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| Serious Error-PyIO |
To upload:
- extract the archive containing the firmware
- open it with the arduino program
- select the file ArduinomeFirmwareX_X.pde
- Go to Tools and select your Arduino (Board) and port (Serial Port)
- check with Sketch / Verify
- and then File / Upload to IO port
After these steps, when I connect my arduino to the pc part of the sequence led (see video below), which is hopefully correct, to verify the operation of the buttons still do not know how, but I will tell you.
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