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The project continues, but with some difficulty

After several tests that are more than one thing certain: the shield is necessary.

In these days of absence have gone far ahead with the project, in the absence of stripboard I opted for a breadboard experimental (the strips are unavailable in Turin), which saves me one thousand solders, pending a final version on Unsped's shield.

Desciverò following steps, problems and their I have adopted to get solutions to attack the PC and see the arduino startup sequence of arduinome

- Welding

As shown in the photo I soldered LEDs, diodes and wires according to the official guide on flipmu . To fix the pieces before welding, there are several options: extend the legs of the component once inserted (the fastest), secure fit with plasticine (more accurate but very slow). For this step you must be very careful because if an error occurs, remove a component is quite difficult.

As for the wires to merge the four cards, he uses the ribbon I have from 16 to get a result as clean as possible. How should the guide is convenient to combine the pcb with glue, I do not know which one to use, I used not to damage the tape. It is not strictly necessary to join the pcb, dalgli patterns of the enclosures, we note that the weight of the pressure of the keys is supported by the faceplate, which is firmly screwed to the PCB via the buttons.

- Part logic

For this step, as they have in store for the Stripboard Torino, I used a breadbord copying the shield of Unsped in every detail. Council to all those who had not said the shield, only to take inspiration from that, which is definitely working. I work for your convenience I have 3 different look, at the risk of insanity due to differences between the various projects. on this blog there are some good detailed photos of the two sides of the shield.

For your convenience should you wish to test the circuit on breadbord, I recommend the use of cables 20 with only a core wire (twisted pair).

I will not explain in detail how to make the circuit, well enough to observe the shield for the resistance 100Kohm ten pin is necessary to cut the last being careful not to cut the first (the one with the dot is the number 1).

To connect to the logic PCB I followed this guide , very clear and simple. I recommend you pay close attention to the connections to avoid damaging the component.

IMPORTANT!

A big and insurmountable problem (for now ...) is the version of the Arduino: One. Next to two thousand, the one has some different characteristics from the previous year, between which there is also a lack of FTDI chip, replaced by more advanced ATmega8U2. To allow programs to interface with monome and arduinome our construction, we must flash the FTDI chip as it says here to bottom. Arduino A failing this chip can not be flashed in that way and therefore will never be recognized by ArduinomeSerial and monomeSerial. Therefore not recommend the purchase of this version for the time being, I will take the old one on a site (or here here) that still has some in stock at reduced price. I repeat "for the moment" because this new version of arduino has a new chip serial / usb that would provide a performance increase Arduinome, with lower latency and maybe even a MIDI interface

I saw that someone is able to interface with Linux, an arduino to Serial-pyIO, I contacted him for more clarification and will post when I know something more updates.

Serious Error-PyIO

To put the firmware on arduino arduinome I downloaded the latest version of the program from the official website and the latest firmware from here .

To upload:

- extract the archive containing the firmware

- open it with the arduino program

- select the file ArduinomeFirmwareX_X.pde

- Go to Tools and select your Arduino (Board) and port (Serial Port)

- check with Sketch / Verify

- and then File / Upload to IO port

After these steps, when I connect my arduino to the pc part of the sequence led (see video below), which is hopefully correct, to verify the operation of the buttons still do not know how, but I will tell you.

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30 / 12/2010

last training for 2010, I decided to finish it in the best way ... snatch!

Warm up 5 '

Snatch # 16 5 / 5
# 20 5 / 5 # 24 10/10 x10
rest between sets 1'

thank all those who have appreciated my proposals for training and I wish achieve what you want ... Happy 2011! A hug

Francesco Borghesi

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The Shield is really necessary?

Turning to the various projects I came across an alternative to the shield of unsped, especially less expensive, since I ordered a shield would cost around € 35 over that ten-day waiting period.

The "shield" alternative, it locks on to Arduino (the use of the term, and therefore inappropriate), is based on a stripboard :

The stripboard is a base spacers with the rows together, like the one to experience (breadboard). The project is Djparis and the scheme is as follows:

plan on stripboard dfi djparis

Making djparis

My greatest fear was to have an excessive amount of wire, which increases the space occupied by the hardware portion of the box and thus arduinome that must rely. From the photo, looks like a clean job, so I really think that I will adopt this solution.

soon as I have done the circuit will post some more detailed photos.

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The values \u200b\u200bof resistors and MAX

page of the official plan, there is an unknown value on Flipmu tied to a resistor with an asterisk that refers to the MAX documentation on the official Arduino.

- How will this be worth?

To answer to this question you need to know the following values:

- DC forward current

- Forward voltage

which are respectively the current and voltage beyond which there is damage to the led and must be notified to 'purchase. In my case I 3.1 V and 20mA .

emphasize the importance of this n za step because the damage to the LEDs may not be visible in the 'immediate, but over time, dramatically reducing the longevity of the LED.

To determine this value correctly, we use the table provided in the link mentioned above:

1.5V 2.0V

	Forward voltage
ISEGA			2.5V	3.0V	3.5V
40mA	12.2kΩ	11.8kΩ	11.0kΩ	10.6kΩ	9.69kΩ
30mA	17.8kΩ	17.1kΩ	15.8kΩ	15.0kΩ	14.0kΩ
20mA	29.8kΩ		28.0kΩ 25.9kΩ 24.5kΩ		22.6kΩ
10mA		66.7kΩ 63.7kΩ 59.3kΩ			55.4kΩ 51.2kΩ

breeding values \u200b\u200bfirst, you get the value of ohmic resistor. In my case this value is 24.5kΩ . If you can not find the correct value, you should buy a higher value resistor to protect the LEDs (in my case finding 24.5kΩ, would opt for a 25kΩ).

As for the resistor network, I'm pretty sure that the values \u200b\u200bare not different from those cited in the official plan (10 Ohms 10-pin) to pin however I noticed that the shield of the space devoted to unsped network of resistors has nine holes ... boh?! if anyone know any more comments!

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Parts arrived!

pieces have arrived and SparkFun Arduino, after two business days from the order, you post some pictures of the components:

I found in an electronics store all necessary components except the MAX7219, I ordered and will arrive Monday.

As for the LED, I tried some 3 and 5 mm (both in size are good), all with high luminosity. The color I chose from the various tests is white, I think it matches better to the wood frame.

The effect of light that just can not please me is the "ball" that forms the center of the button and Note also on youtube, allowing definition video in most of arduinome.

The photo is underexposed: with normal exposure you could not see the effect
The light in question is 5mm

I believe that this problem is to be charged at the corner of spread of the LEDs: 3mm ones are unlikely to exceed 20 ° and the 5mm are around 40 degrees, creating a very narrow cone of light, which in our case as a dot in the center of the button. The LEDs I ordered these are : have a scattering angle of 170 degrees, and I hope will reduce the effect bullet.

will post the photos in an article on the various tests on the buttons light, the LEDs will come soon.

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order processed!

SparkFun Sunday I ordered the parts (buttons and pcb x4) and ONE from arduino Regaliedesideri, today I received confirmation of shipment!

The total expenditure for these components is € 95.30, the detail of expenditure below:

The discount on the first purchase of € 5.00, € 8 for GLS courier postage (the cheapest among all). For those interested to 'purchase of components SparkFun on the website above, I have others in stock, with discounts based on quantity (X4 and X8).

parts should arrive tomorrow, if so will post some pictures when I get time I also led on the effect of color on different buttons!

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The soldering ... this unknown

Before starting this project I have to do a bit of practice with the soldering, which is necessary for the success of the project and especially to avoid mistakes and then throw away components, so I remedied fatigue.

My only experience with the welder to design that are derived from some earlier and some modchip on the console (bought strictly welds with less possible), in this case there will be more than two hundred welds to be done, with a margin of error equal to 0 or nearly ... so be prepared!

to train a bit ', pending the materials I've got a bit' of things, including what the famous man missing lens and the liquid antioxidant or "pasta firm" (which I'll get as soon as possible)

The photograph shows the pond from 1.0 mm in diameter, the LEDs, the welder, the breadboard. The pasta firm facilitates the connection between the pond sides to be welded, preventing oxidation over time. The "third hand "as the name implies, is an inevitable component.

E 'can learn something more about the techniques and materials to be used watching some videos on youtube. In my case, the video posted below was very enlightening!

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Updates!

The pieces I ordered from their shop Regaliedesideri should arrive on December 10th, I hope to place your order as soon as possible, anticipate the Christmas season and take a vacation for the construction. The pieces that I ordered from them are:

Arduino

1X-4X-A

Buttons SparkFun

4X-PCB SparkFun

All electronic parts are missing I have yet to find them, I hope to find a dealer in Italy, to shorten time and reduce costs of prospection. The LED

I thought I'd hang from a German e-shop that sells all over Europe: Led1.de . Besides having a vast assortment for every kind of LED, will guarantee Free Shipping! I thought, once you get the pieces SparkFun, to do some testing with LEDs of different colors (purchased in the shop downstairs) and then choose the one I prefer. Post the pictures of the colored buttons in differently soon as I receive the parts.

Another component, in my view essential, is the Shield. But now we understand what is it ... The Shield is by definition a printed circuit board (PCB) that fits perfectly on the Arduino, in this case facilitating the connections (and thus a reduction of the cables as replaced by the same Shield) between the latter 's and our array of LEDs and buttons . E 'can do without, but from what I saw in the various projects (I refer you here for more info), you should get it.

Well, having said that, where you can buy the shield for arduinome? Unfortunately there is no Nobody in the world that it already sells ... I have seen some buying groups on the website in the section of the monome arduinome the project, but I do not think we are still active.

I thought to take the project has already made a shield, as used in various projects, namely to Unsped , who also shared in the format required by the producers of PCBs (. Gerber). There are companies in Italy, starting from a. You gerber make the circuit board and send it to you. Now I have yet to figure out where to turn but we'll let you know in future updates.

The required files can be downloaded directly from the blog of Unsped (bottom).

If anyone is aware of useful information for finding led the shield or do not hesitate to contact me!